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| City Guide - Madrid - Nightlife | ||
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Nightlife Madrileños tend not to make one plan for the evening but about three or four. The result is a crazy zigzag itinerary, with the journey itself the evening's focus. Street life reaches rush-hour proportions at 0400; hard-core hedonists revel on until the following afternoon. While the busiest nights are Friday and Saturday, with Thursday a close runner-up, the locals go out every night and, miraculously, manage to work or study during the day. Perhaps the secret to endless energy lies in the tapas snacks of olives and anchovies, chorizo sausages and gambas (deep-fried shrimp), Madrid's specialities of orejas (pig's ears), callos (tripe), mollejas (sweetbreads), snails in hot sauce and bull's testicles, or it could be the thick hot chocolate, accompanied with sweet, fried churros downed after a long night out on the town. The only let-up is during the August exodus, when only a few venues stay open. Nightlife converges in three major districts: the Chueca (Madrid's gay village, also a trendy location for straights); Huertas (traditional Spanish music and smart clubs and bars); and around the Plaza del Dos de Mayo in the Malasaña district (favoured by a hip young crowd). Small streets off Gran Vía form the city's red-light district. The nightlife scene is varied, with music halls, clubs, cafés, cocktail bars and flamenco tablaos all playing a role. It can be hard to tell bars and clubs apart, since bars often have a dance floor and not all clubs charge for entry. Where they do, Pta800-1500 is the standard admission fee, which includes consumición (first drink). It is customary to pay on leaving, few bars accept credit cards. Tipping is discretionary (Pta100 will suffice). Bars: Madrid's bars range from dark, wooden-panelled taverns to the fabulous Viva Madrid, Calle Manuel Fernández y Gonzáles 7, with its painted tiles of typical Madrid scenes from the 1900s. A former brothel run by gypsies, Los Gabrieles, Calle Echegaray 17, is now a respectable bar for a young chic clientele with a tiled interior that depicts Velázquez's The Drunkards. The Garamond, on Calle de Claudio Ceollo 10, has a castle-like interior and suits a smart older crowd. Chicote, Grand Vía 12, Madrid's most famed bar, has preserved its 1930s interior and it is easy to imagine Hemingway reclining here during the Civil War. The best tapas bars are clustered in the narrow central streets; such as Ventura de la Vega, the area around Plaza de Santa Ana, and Plaza de Santa Bárbara, Cava Baja and Calle de Cuchilleros. One of the best is La Trucha (The Trout), Calle Manuel Fernández y González 3. As dawn breaks, try Chocolatéria San Ginés, Pasadizo de San Ginés 11 - a mecca for hot chocolate and churros. Casino: Casino Gran Madrid, carretera de la Coruna (tel: (91) 859 0312), is the only officially recognised casino in Madrid. Located outside the city, near Torrelodones, a free bus service leaves from Plaza Espana 6. The dress code is formal, ties must be worn. Clubs: Although a little staid in its musical taste, Madrid moves to the sound of Latin American music, world music, mainstream disco, house, hip hop and underground. Pick up AB for free in trendy shops in Malasaña or at DJ-run AMA Records, Calle Espíritu Santo 25, for the latest club news. Most tourists converge on the clubs around the Sol and Gran Vía, but you may want to try out some of the local haunts instead. A typical night would begin at about 2300 at Serrano 4, Calle Serrano, Independecia, Puerta de Alcalá or Sportsman, Calle Alcalá 65, before moving on to Fortuny, Calle Fortuney 34, Archy, Calle Marqués 27, or Monet, Calle del Padre Damián 23. There is no admission charge but chic dress is recommended. If energy is still forthcoming, the locals dance to techno at Pacha, Calle Barceló 11. Gabana 1800, Calle de Velázquez 6, is another popular venue for stylish 20- and 30-somethings - if the objectionable bouncer allows admission. Live music: Madrid offers a wide choice of flamenco, salsa, jazz, African music and music by cantautores - Spanish singer-songwriters. The Café de la Palma, Calle la Palma 62, is the bar of the moment and a venue for singer-songwriters, flamenco and Cuban music. Fans of Cuban music should head for Cuando Salí de Cuba, Calle Ternera 4. Live performances on Thursday, Friday and Saturday begin at 2230. Moby Dick, Avenida de Brasil 5, in the Castellana district, plays live pop and rock on weekdays and hosts DJs (reggae and rap) at weekends to a mixed clientele of foreigners and locals. For an even more eclectic choice of music, try Café Populart, Calle Huertas 22, where you can experience everything from live jazz to swing, salsa, blues, gospel, African and reggae. There are two shows nightly at 2300 and 0030. The Irish Rover pub, Avenida de Brasil 7, imports Irish, folk and country music. International acts play regularly at the Café Central, Plaza del Angel 10, Madrid's top jazz venue. Pop stars and the best salsa bands perform at La Riviera, Paseo Bajo de la Virgen el Puerto s/n. |
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